Croatia has a split personality. There's the all-inclusive version with sun loungers, frozen cocktails, and a buffet featuring seventeen varieties of fried potato. Then there's the island-hopping version, complete with a colour-coded itinerary, carefully timed ferry connections, and a determination to visit as many places as possible in the shortest amount of time.
Both can be enjoyable. Neither leaves much room for the moments you'll actually remember.
Because the best parts of travelling in Croatia rarely happen on a schedule. They happen when a quick swim turns into an entire afternoon, when lunch stretches unexpectedly into dinner, or when you decide to stay somewhere a little longer simply because you're having too much fun.
When everyone is apparently having the trip of a lifetime at a very high speed, it's hard to feel like you're missing out if you don't plan your trip in the same way.
But this slow travel guide offers an alternative. Fewer places, longer in each one. Less rushing from island to island, more time to settle in, wander without a plan, and experience the Dalmatian Coast at a slower, more rewarding pace.
This guide isn’t about seeing as much of Croatia as possible. It’s about travelling around it with more intention. Choosing what feels worth your time, staying longer where it matters, and letting the rest go unexplored without guilt.
About My Trip
I was invited by More Sailing to experience a 4-day all-inclusive sailing trip in Croatia—four days, eight strangers, and a full itinerary. Good fun, but intense.
To balance it out, I added two nights in Split beforehand and one night in Trogir afterwards. Partly logistics, partly a deliberate decision to make the trip feel a little slower and less rushed.
Split before the sailing gave me two relaxed days wandering the cobbled streets. Trogir after gave me a soft landing place to decompress—a pool, a proper bed, and nowhere to be—after several days on a boat.
This guide came out of all of it.
Things To Do In Croatia
Croatia rewards the unplanned. The best moments tend to happen when you don't write an itinerary and instead, follow the cobbled streets wherever they lead: a hidden courtyard, a konoba with only two tables, a swimming spot you'd never have found on purpose.
These are a few things worth doing, but treat them as loose suggestions rather than a checklist.
Explore the Old Town of Trogir
Trogir is often overshadowed by Split and Dubrovnik, but its UNESCO-listed old town is one of the most atmospheric places on the Dalmatian Coast. Wander the narrow stone streets, climb the bell tower of Cathedral of St. Lawrence, and spend an evening along the waterfront watching boats drift in and out of the harbour.
Swim in the Adriatic Sea
It sounds obvious, but swimming is one of Croatia's greatest pleasures. Many of the best spots aren't beaches at all but rocky coves, hidden bays, and swimming platforms built into the coastline. Bring water shoes and leave plenty of time for unplanned stops.
Visit the Dalmatian Islands
Rather than trying to see them all, pick one or two islands and stay long enough to get beyond the main port. Vis is quieter than most—good for a secluded swim or a boat ride to the submarine tunnel Jastog. Brač is the largest island in Dalmatia, best known for its white-pebble beach and the pale limestone that seems to glow in the afternoon light. Each one is worth more time than most people give it.
Eat at a Traditional Konoba
A konoba is a traditional Croatian tavern, usually family-run and focused on local and seasonal cooking, with menus that lean heavily on seafood. Most places offer vegan-friendly options too, often simple dishes built around whatever vegetables are in season. If you spot Cucumber and Grape Gazpacho on the menu, order it—cold, sharp, mostly cucumber, with a hint of grape and tangy vinegar.
Walk Through Diocletian's Palace in Split
Unlike many historic sites, this isn't a museum frozen in time. People live, work, shop, and eat within the walls of the Roman palace. Early morning and evening are the best times to wander its alleys, courtyards, and hidden passages once the largest crowds have disappeared.
And then there's Froggyland. A museum of taxidermied frogs arranged in human scenes. Slightly overpriced for what it is, but if you're drawn to the odd and unexpected, it's worth it. Best visited after a couple of glasses of wine. Open until 9pm.
Split makes a good base if you want to explore the wider region without constantly repacking. Day trips along the coast, inland to the national parks, or to nearby UNESCO sites are all easy from here—either through organised excursions or by hiring a car and going at your own pace. Do whatever makes the most sense for how you like to travel.
Where to Eat and Drink in Croatia
Eating and drinking in Croatia aren't really separate activities—most places expect you to do both. Finding somewhere to just sit with a glass of wine and nothing else can take more effort than you'd expect.
The best spots are rarely on the main waterfront. The Riva in Split looks appealing until you realise the menu is overpriced, the tables are crowded, and you'll feel moved on before you've finished. Head a few streets back and everything improves.
Finding vegan-friendly restaurants wasn’t particularly difficult, especially in Split and Trogir. Even the smaller islands usually had something on the menu, or were happy to adapt a dish if asked.
That said, the options were often limited. Traditional konobas tend to lean heavily on seafood and grilled meat, with vegan choices usually reduced to familiar sides—mixed grilled vegetables, chard, fries—simple, but repetitive after a while.
What follows is a list of personal recommendations but it's just a starting point. The best places, as ever, tend to reveal themselves once you're actually there.
Split Recommendations
- Barakokula Restaurant — One of the few places in Croatia serving plant-based versions of traditional Dalmatian cuisine. Worth seeking out.
- Focaccina Sandwich Bar — So good I went back the next day. That's all you need to know.
- Veg Plant-Based — More original than traditional, with a longer menu than you'd expect. Order the Katsu Tofu Bowl.
- Submarine Burger — Quick, familiar, decent. Go somewhere else if you have time.
- Gelateria aMare — The most interesting gelato flavours in Split, including Rose Lemonade and Dark Chocolate. Both vegan-friendly.
- Gugin Pigeria — The restaurant isn't vegan-friendly but the wine bar in the market is. A good spot to sit and watch Split shift from day to night.
- Parasol — My favourite place in Split. Small, beautifully decorated, excellent wine. Go in the evening.
- Regina Wine Bar — A few seats, outside, good for people-watching.
- D16 Speciality Coffee — Order at the counter or sit in the café opposite. The espresso and iced coffee were both excellent.
- Stow Speciality Coffee — Small, busy, and worth the wait. Excellent coffee. If I'd had room in my bag, I'd have left with beans.
Trogir Recommendations
- Murtila Pizza and Wine Bar — Most places along the promenade aren't worth stopping at. Murtila is the exception—good Neapolitan pizza and a decent wine list.
- Cucina — A small family-run restaurant serving the vegan staples you'd expect: avocado toast, falafel bowl, açaí bowl. Good for brunch.
- Agape Speciality Coffee — A good cup of coffee in exactly the right location if you've just stepped off a boat.
Island Recommendations
When looking for vegan-friendly dishes, most restaurants across the islands lean towards traditional Croatian cuisine. Finding vegan options isn’t particularly difficult, but they’re often made up of side dishes rather than dedicated mains.
It’s also worth asking for dishes to be served separately if you’re dining with others ordering meat or seafood—especially if you’re planning to share, as some places will serve everything together on shared platters.
- Restaurant Palma, Brač — Traditional dishes in a beautiful setting. Order the cucumber and grape gazpacho.
- Vinoeka Repor Wine Bar, Brač — High stools right on the edge of the harbour, and the best wine I had in all of Croatia.
- Dudo, Vis — Worth knowing if you're vegan: dishes arrived on a shared platter with seafood without warning, which meant reordering. The food itself was too salty and oily for my taste, though the table next to us disagreed.
- Restaurant Šakajet, Solta — Three solid vegan options and a good spot for a late dinner.
Where to Stay in Croatia
Where you stay shapes the kind of trip you have. A hotel gives you comfort and space to decompress. A sailing boat gives you adventure and spontaneity, at the cost of privacy and personal space. A guest house in the middle of an old town puts you closest to the city itself. None is the right answer—it depends entirely on what you're after.
Palace Tartaglia (Split)
A small guest house hidden at the back of an art gallery, right in the heart of Split's Old Town. Step outside and you're immediately on the cobbled streets—everything is walkable from here. Worth knowing: four flights of stairs and no lift, so not suitable for everyone.
1–2 days is the ideal amount of time for Split’s Old Town. It’s compact enough to explore at a slow, unrushed pace, especially outside peak season when the streets are quieter. Staying in the centre makes this even easier—you can step straight out into it, which works perfectly for a short stay.
More Sailing
More Sailing runs sailing trips on catamarans and yachts, with private cabins sleeping two (if you're travelling solo, you'll share with another guest). The cabins are compact, but the beds are comfortable enough and you do adjust quickly to the limited space.
The experience is best understood as a sailing group trip rather than a small boat cruise. You’ll spend several days sharing close quarters with the same small group, which does require a bit of patience and flexibility.
Days tend to follow a loose schedule: swimming stops in quiet bays, time sailing between islands, and evenings moored in small coastal towns. Breakfast and lunch are provided onboard. In the evenings, you’re free to head ashore for dinner.
It’s worth knowing that comfort is weather-dependent, and your experience can vary quite a bit depending on your skipper, crew, and the mix of people onboard. These trips are aimed at a relaxed, sociable experience, and the social side is a big part of it.
It’s not a luxury sailing holiday, but it’s also not uncomfortable backpacking. It sits somewhere in between: shared adventure, simple comforts, and a very efficient way to see multiple islands without constantly packing and unpacking.
If you like the idea of being on the water most of the day, meeting people easily, and not overthinking logistics, it works really well. If you need personal space, quiet routines, or predictability, it can feel intense quite quickly.
Brown Beach House (Trogir)
After days in a cramped boat cabin—taking a dinghy to shore just to shower—the Brown Beach House felt like a different world entirely. A proper bathroom, a pool, space to breathe. A good place to end a trip before a long journey home.
I’d highly recommend booking a comfortable hotel after a sailing trip rather than heading straight home. Having a bit of space to spread out and proper facilities—a long, uninterrupted shower is non-negotiable after a week at sea—makes all the difference.
What is the best month to visit Croatia?
The best months to visit Croatia are May, June, and September. They offer the sweet spot between warm weather, sunshine, and sea temperatures that are comfortable enough for swimming, without the peak-season crowds found later in the summer.
July and August are Croatia's busiest months. The weather is at its hottest, the Adriatic is wonderfully warm, and coastal towns are at their liveliest. If you're looking for the classic Croatian summer experience, this is the time to visit. It's also when accommodation prices are highest, ferries are busiest, and popular destinations can feel noticeably crowded.
April and early May offer a quieter alternative. Temperatures are generally mild and pleasant for sightseeing, hiking, and exploring historic towns, while accommodation tends to be more affordable. The weather can be less predictable than in summer, and sea temperatures are often still on the cool side, but the trade-off is a more relaxed experience with far fewer visitors.
For slow travel, May, June, and September tend to strike the best balance. The days are long, the pace feels gentler, and it's easier to enjoy Croatia without feeling as though you're sharing it with everyone else.
Go slower than you think you need to. It's worth it.